Lesotho accommodation

Lesotho Travel Guide

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Lesotho is a landlocked country, surrounded on all sides by South Africa. It distinguishes itself by being the only country in the world with its entire land-mass situated more than 1400 metres above sea level. Over 80% of the country lies at above 1800 metres. Breath ... more...

The original Khoisan people in the region were colonised by invading Sotho-Tswana people between the 3rd and 11th centuries but Lesotho in its current form did not come into being until 1822 under King Moshoeshoe I. In 1867, in the face of increasing encroachment by the Boers on his kingdom, Moshoeshoe appealed to good old Queen Victoria for protectorate status, which was graciously granted the following year. The appeal for protection was a good plan, as it turns out, for two reasons: 1) No pounding from the British, such as that received by the Zulus in 1897 and 2) No apartheid.

Since independence in 1966, Lesotho has gone through a number of periods of political turmoil, including a rather chaotic and ill-conceived invasion in 1998 by SADC forces from South Africa, but none so serious that it has impacted on the country’s capacity to look after tourists with great warmth, regardless of the cool climate.

Tourism apart, Lesotho’s main exports are water from the Khatse Dam to South Africa and diamonds – a 603 carat diamond was dug out of the Letseng-la-Terae mine as recently as 2006 and a 478 carat stone was discovered at the same mine in 2008.

The Mountain Kingdom, or Kingdom in the Sky, offers a great deal to the visitor not least because it is accessible and has a fundamentally different feel from surrounding South Africa. So saddle up and ride your pony!

Blankets, altitude and pointy hats

Despite its landlocked status within South Africa, the country of Lesotho has very distinctive traditions of its own, notable among them being the Basotho blanket – made from thick wool as a protection against the cold in a high-altitude mountain country. The blanket is frequently supplemented with a conical hat, the mokorotlo, which has become the country’s most common icon, appearing on everything down to the numberplates and currently on the national flag adopted in 2006 (although the flag changes frequently with a change of government). The hat is made from straw and sports a complicated knot at its apex. Its shape is said to have been inspired by one of the mountains to be seen from Thaba Tseka, the mountain fortress from which Lesotho was founded. The third common item of traditional attire is the lekolulu, a small flute, generally used by herding boys - a sweet sound on the chilly mountain air. But don’t worry about the herdboy’s education. Lesotho’s adult literacy rate is 85%, one of the highest on the continent. So he is learning to read while he counts and whistles!

Did you know?

Currency: Loti (pinned to the SA Rand)

Independence: From Britain, 4th October 1966

Official languages: SeSotho, English

Head of State: HM King Letsie III

Capital: Maseru

Top Traveller's Tips

Thaba Ntlenyana, in the Drakensberg range, is Southern Africa’s highest peak at 3 482m above sea level. Watch out for lighting strikes on high ground, when hiking. They kill a couple of people every year.

Kingsway, Maseru’s main street, was paved (and probably named) for a British Royal visit in 1947 and remained the only tar road in the city for many years.

Maseru’s most unusual building is in Kingsway – a curio shop in the shape of a conical Basotho hat.

Thaba Bosiu – Moshoeshoe’s stronghold and capital. The remnants of his fortress and the cemetery may still be seen on this soulful spot.

Pony-trekking is the signature activity in the highlands and hikes and 4x4 routes abound. Probably the most famous 4x4 road is the climb from Underberg (in South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province) up Sani Pass into Lesotho. Strictly 4x4 only unless you are a minibus taxi, for some reason. Those things can go anywhere.

The Khatse Dam at Bokong and its catchment area offer spectacular views, outstanding birding and numerous watersports.

Thaba Phatsoa near Lionel Collet Dam offers the more rugged activities – mountaineering, abseiling, hiking and canoeing.

Morija was the first mission station in Lesotho, established in 1833, and is home to the country’s best museum. It also gives access to the nearby dinosaur footprints although Quthing, in the south has the most accessible prints. www.go2africa.com/lesotho/morija

Mohale’s Hoek is home to the AIDS orphanage made famous by Britain’s Prince Harry.

Maletsunyane Falls near Semonkong, at 192 metres, is the highest single-drop waterfall in Southern Africa.

Lesotho’s National Parks may be complicated to reach but they are well worth the trek. Sehlabathebe has to be one of the most remote and scenic official conservation areas on the planet. You must take ALL your supplies with you. Even wood. www.seelesotho.com

There are San rock paintings throughout Lesotho. Some of the most accessible are at Malealea, which is also home to one of the country’s most developed lodges, called (funnily enough) Malealea Lodge.

Afriski at 3322m above sea level, at the top of the Mahlasela Pass in the Maloti Mountains, is Lesotho’s only ski resort and one of only two in Southern Africa. It sleeps 352 people and man-made snow augments the natural stuff throughout the winter season. There’s even a snow-boarding championships held here. www.afriski.co.za

Festivals & Fun

Moshoeshoe’s Day is celebrated on 12th March. Expect Maseru to come alive with energetic singing and dancing in honour of the anniversary of the Great King’s death. (March)

Morija Arts and Cultural Festival – a Sotho cultural festival, held over 5 days, with singing, culture and history (October) www.morijafest.com

Features, creatures & Flower power

Herbal remedies – The mountainsides are covered with wild lavender and herbs. On the mountain roads you will pass unusually sweet-smelling donkeys laden with bundles of aromatic bushes and heading for the markets

Forest Reserves throughout Lesotho are dedicated to maintaining an ongoing supply of wood for domestic use. The long-term aim is that re-afforestation might lead to an export crop.

Peach blossom and mimosa line the valleys in springtime and the trees do a “New England” in autumn. I hesitate to use the word “pretty” but Lesotho is as pretty as it is spectacular!

Critics Cuisine

THE BASOTHO HUT – As well as being home to the curio shop, the hat is also home to the hut, Maseru’s top eating spot.

SANI TOP – Wholesome meals in an Alpine chalet with glühwein, to boot. It’s Africa’s highest pub! +27 33 702 1305

Keith Floyd (the late TV chef) made it to Lesotho, where he cooked up chicken kebabs in piri-piri sauce with sweetcorn fritters and a pineapple and cucumber salad, which he then served to the country’s Queen. It is not recorded whether she joined him in a glass of red wine.

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