Mozambique accommodation

Mozambique Travel Guide

click for full travel guide

Mozambique’s Bantu settlers were among the first to have protracted dealings with overseas traders. It is thought that Swahili and Arab traders had established permanent trading settlements along the coast as early as 1200. Nevertheless Mozambique was the first southern African country to be fully c ... more...

Nevertheless Mozambique was the first southern African country to be fully colonised by Europeans. Vasco da Gama landed on the Mozambiquan coast in 1498 and by 1530 significant Portuguese infrastructure was in place along the northern coastline. This expanded steadily until 1700. With pressure on its borders from the other European powers indulging in their “Scramble for Africa”and with interests elsewhere to develop, the Portuguese gradually moved their operations to the south of the country and the new capital Lourenco Marques.

In 1951, the Portuguese government had rebranded its colonies as “Overseas Provinces of Portugal” and there may have been as many as 500 000 Portuguese living in Mozambique (and almost the same number in Angola).

By the mid-1960s pressure was growing on Portugal to enter into negotiations for independence but there would be ten years of bloodshed before independence finally came about in 1975. The ensuing civil war was long and violent and involved players from beyond the country’s borders, as South Africa with Rhodesia and Russia with Cuba backed Renamo and Frelimo (the two militias in the conflict) respectively.

Peace would only return in 1992 when Joachim Chissano took over from Samora Machel, who had recently been killed in a mysterious plane crash. The economy was severely battered by the civil war and years of failed Marxism but significant investment, international aid and good governance are all ensuring good growth in the economy – especially through agriculture, transportation and tourism. In the Mozambique of 2010 there is finally much to celebrate!

The LM Prawn

Lourenco Marques – now Maputo – was famous for its prawns and today’s visitor can still expect to be treated to the LM Prawn dish in its original format, although unfortunately over-fishing is reducing the numbers and size of these crustaceans. Old-timers will tell you (with some exaggeration) that in the 1950s and 1960s these creatures used to be over a foot long ... The prawns would sit for a couple of hours in a marinade of chillis, oil, garlic, lemon or lime juice, onion, parsley and vinegar. Once the juices had been absorbed the prawns would be thrown onto a grille on a hot fire and cooked for about 2 minutes each side, basting regularly with the marinade. Very delicious but sometimes not for the faint-hearted if the chillis (peri-peri) were powerful. Beware the innocent-looking peri-peri sauce in the mineral water bottles on Mozambiquan restaurant tables!

Did you know?

Currency: Metecal

Independence: From Portugal on 25th June 1975

Official language: Portuguese

Head of State: President Armando Guebuza

Capital: Maputo

Top Traveller's Tips

Maputo’s railway station was designed by Gustav Eiffel, who built Paris’s Eiffel Tower.

Colonial buildings and some dramatic art deco styles have led to Maputo being called Little Havana. Beira has even more art deco buildings including an impressive post office.

The capital’s tree-lined streets link numerous parks and impressive botanical gardens. The pavements are inset with white and black rock mosaics.

The Catembe ferry crosses the river towards the Maputo Elephant Park and offers views of the capital from afar that make it look like San Francisco, even if it looks more like Beirut from up-close!

Beaches along Mozambique’s entire coastline offer white sand, palm trees and plenty of safe bathing in lagoons and reef-protected areas.

Ponta do Ouro is a popular beach resort and playground for South Africans.

Game fishing is a popular sport from Vilanculos, Inhambane and the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago. Diving and snorkelling are also available along with most board and sail activities.

Gorongoza National Park has re-opened after being devastated during the Civil War. Restocking initiatives are under way and concessions are due to be announced. www.gorongoza.net

Ihla de Mozambique is a World Heritage Site in the north and was the capital of the Portuguese colony until the turn of the last century. Strong Swahili and Moslem influences lend the island a touch of Zanzibar but without the commercialism.

Lake Niassa (otherwise known as Lake Malawi) has a couple of very luxurious fly-in lodges on its shores but the alternative – a drive across the north of the country – while rugged, offers huge granite koppies amid lovely rolling hills. And there’s game roaming freely amongst the maize fields.

The Quirimbas National Park was established in 2002 to protect the islands and the seas around the Quirimbas archipelago from the ravages of overfishing. Some of the world’s best coral reef diving may be found here.

Festivals & Fun

Independence Day – The President speaks and then the party begins (25 June)

Live music is a part of Maputo – they don’t need a festival to have a party. The city’s night life is legendary

Features, creatures & Flower power

Mozambiquan houses, even the bigger ones, are constructed using reeds for the walls and palm fronds for the roof. The temperate climate means that they don’t even need windows. When the roof rots from the damp, you slap a new one on top and if it’s cold in the winter, you buy another blanket. Job done.

Critics Cuisine

Costa do Sol – Maputo’s signature restaurant at the top of the Marginal boasts on its menu that it has hosted such dignitaries as Tom Jones and the Swazi Royal Family (but doesn’t think to mention Leonardo di Caprio).

Escorpão, in the Feira Popular, is totally devoid of atmosphere. It’s like having dinner in a church hall with 200 shouting Portuguese but the crab is incredible.

Casa Lisa, 40km north of Maputo on the EN1 does an unbeatable peri-peri chicken and a mean breakfast depending on the time of day +258 82 3041990T

Cashews are sold from washing-up bowls on the side of the road between Maputo and Xai-Xai. Freshly roasted, they’ll never taste better than this

Seafood is a staple diet for Mozambiquans – and its freshness is credited with keeping the people healthy and keeping down the incidences of HIV-Aids

Cassava – or more simply, the yam – is the staple diet of Mozambique, unlike most of the region which lives off the humble mealie.

hide